Itineraries
Access
Grande Dixence :
From the Grande Dixence dam, a pleasant walk takes you through the mountain pastures bordering Lac des Dix to the foot of the Cheilon glacier. Here the effort begins. The path climbs to the top of the lateral moraine on the left bank of the glacier. A cabin has to be earned! A glance over your shoulder allows you to contemplate the Val des Dix in all its splendour. Ahead of you lies Tête-Noir, the last bastion separating you from your goal. A little more effort, a final ascent and the panorama offered by the Cheilon cirque is yours for the taking. And right there, a few dozen metres below, the Cabane des Dix awaits you, ready to offer you a well-deserved rest.
Arolla :
Your tour begins at the Grand Hotel Kurhaus. You cross the magnificent botanical garden before starting to climb. You then head off in the direction of “la Remointse”. Vegetation changes. You leave the forests to cross the pastures overlooking the village of Arolla. On your left, you’ll have a breathtaking view of the Tsijiore Nouve glacier and its impressive seracs. You pass the Arolla lifts and continue westwards to reach a combe at the foot of the Col de Riedmatten.
At 2738m, there are two possible routes. On your right is the Col de Riedmatten, a famous route for the Glacier Patrol. Opposite you, the Pas-de-Chèvre and its famous ladders. The Pas-de-Chèvre is currently not recommended due to rockfalls.
When you reach one of these passages, take a moment to admire the panorama. Behind you, you can see some of the most famous 4000 Valaisan peaks, and on your left, the aesthetic Mont-Blanc pyramid at Cheilon stands proudly over the Val des Dix.
The last stage of your hike begins. Follow the red markings on the rocks down to the lake at the foot of the Cheilon glacier. Cross the footbridge over the torrent, then head up the morraine to join the path leading from the Grande Dixence dam.
Arolla :
You can take the Arolla lifts to save 400m of ascent.
For the more athletic, departure is from the Arolla parking lot. You walk up the slopes to the top of the lifts. Leave the ski slopes and head west. On your left, the impressive seracs of the Tsijiore Nouve glacier overlook the valley. Stay at the bottom of the latter to avoid the more exposed slopes on the sides.
At 2738m, continue west to the summit of Pas-de-Chèvre. The Col de Riedmatten is not passable in winter. Take a moment to contemplate the panorama. Descend the ladders and moraine to the Cheilon glacier. Cross the glacier in a straight line to the western lateral moraine. Just a few more conversions and you’re in front of the Cabane des Dix, where a cup of hot tea awaits you.
Itineraries
Here you’ll find the most common routes. Several variants are possible. The guidebook is available at the hut.
WNW and SW ridge (normal route): From Col de Cheilon 3h; F to PD.
- Follow the rocky ridge from the Col de Cheilon (3243). This ridge becomes snowy and wide at P. 3496. Head for the saddle at P. 3774 between the summit and the snow dome. From here, follow the narrow then steep SW ridge to the summit.
NNW ridge (Gallet): From the hut 5h; AD.
- Climb up the Cheilon glacier to reach the small pass south of the Clocher de Cheilon. Follow the ridge to the gendarme in the middle of the ridge. Go around to the E side, then back to the ridge. At the end of the route, there are many jumps in rock that is not always very solid.
North face: From the hut 6h30; TD-.
- Climb up the Cheilon glacier to reach the small pass south of the Clocher de Cheilon. Pass the rimaye at the foot of the face then reach the rocks on the left of the couloir. When the couloir widens, take the top of the névé. Pass partially through the rocks that border it. Join a spur on the left that leads slightly to the right of the summit. Two V-shaped passages.
NNE ridge (Jenkins): 5h; AD+.
- From the hut, follow the Col de la Serpentine itinerary, then deviate to reach the foot of the ridge. Pass the rimaye on the left of the ridge. Follow the snow slope and quickly gain the ridge. Follow the thread to the top. The middle of the ridge consists of loose rock. Climb around the last projection on the north face. Pick up the ridge as soon as possible and follow it to the summit.
Arête E: Du col de la Serpentine 2h15; PD+.
- From the Col de la Serpentine (3547), follow the S side of the ridge (possible ledges to the N) to point 3819. Follow the rocky ridge, then cross the large gendarme. Continue along an easy slab, then a narrow jump. Go around the two small horns to the S, then quickly reach the wire. Finish with a pleasant climb, then a chimney leading to the summit.
From the hut 3h; F.
Descend to the Cheilon glacier, then reach the Tsena Réfien glacier. Keep to the left to avoid the most cracked areas. Head for the Serpentine pass. Leave the Col de la Serpentine route to join the NE ridge of the Serpentine (Mur de la Serpentine). Climb this snowy slope then reach the Col du Brenay. Reach the summit via easy névés.
Easy glacier walk or ski, 2 to 3 hours from hut to summit.
NE ridge: Du Mont-Blanc de Cheilon 4.5h; AD+.
(Nice run offering 2km of ridge; avoid if isotherm below 3500m).
From the Mont-Blanc de Cheilon snow dome, follow the ridge to its lowest point (3695). Continue to follow the thread, taking care to avoid any ledges to the south. The ridge features a rocky shoulder (3770) at the foot of the summit. Climbing becomes difficult. The gros gendarme is climbed via a vertical chimney (IV) on the right-hand side of the ridge. Finally reaching the summit in just a few minutes.
A visit to our neighbors from the Cabane des Dix:
- Cabane de Prafleuri via Dixence dam and Col des Roux
- Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges via Col des Ignes or Pas de Chèvres
- Cabane des Vignettes via Pigne d’Arolla or Pas de Chèvres
- Cabane de Chanrion via the three passes. Cheilon, Mt-Rouge and Lire Rose
