Itineraries - Cabane des Dix

Ski touring objectives

Mt Blanc de Cheilon ( 3870 m ) :

Here you’ll find the most common routes. Several variants are possible. The guidebook is available at the hut.

WNW and SW ridge (normal route): From Col de Cheilon 3h; F to PD.

Follow the rocky ridge from the Col de Cheilon (3243). This ridge becomes snowy and wide at P. 3496. Head for the saddle at P. 3774 between the summit and the snow dome. From here, follow the narrow then steep SW ridge to the summit.

NNW ridge (Gallet): From the hut 5h; AD.

Climb up the Cheilon glacier to reach the small pass south of the Clocher de Cheilon. Follow the ridge to the gendarme in the middle of the ridge. Go around to the E side, then back to the ridge. At the end of the route, there are many jumps in rock that is not always very solid.

North face: From the hut 6h30; TD-.

Climb up the Cheilon glacier to reach the small pass south of the Clocher de Cheilon. Pass the rimaye at the foot of the face then reach the rocks on the left of the couloir. When the couloir widens, take the top of the névé. Pass partially through the rocks that border it. Join a spur on the left that leads slightly to the right of the summit. Two V-shaped passages.

NNE ridge (Jenkins): 5h; AD+.

From the hut, follow the Col de la Serpentine itinerary, then deviate to reach the foot of the ridge. Pass the rimaye on the left of the ridge. Follow the snow slope and quickly gain the ridge. Follow the thread to the top. The middle of the ridge consists of loose rock. Climb around the last projection on the north face. Pick up the ridge as soon as possible and follow it to the summit.

Arête E: Du col de la Serpentine 2h15; PD+.

From the Col de la Serpentine (3547), follow the S side of the ridge (possible ledges to the N) to point 3819. Follow the rocky ridge, then cross the large gendarme. Continue along an easy slab, then a narrow jump. Go around the two small horns to the S, then quickly reach the wire. Finish with a pleasant climb, then a chimney leading to the summit.

Pigne d’Arolla ( 3796 m ) : From the hut 3h; F.

Descend to the Cheilon glacier, then reach the Tsena Réfien glacier. Keep to the left to avoid the most cracked areas. Head for the Serpentine pass. Leave the Col de la Serpentine route to join the NE ridge of the Serpentine (Mur de la Serpentine). Climb this snowy slope then reach the Col du Brenay. Reach the summit via easy névés.

La Luette ( 3583 m ): easy hike or ski on glacier, 2 to 3 hours from hut to summit.

The Pleureur ( 3704 m )

La Ruinette ( 3875 m ) :

NE ridge: Du Mont-Blanc de Cheilon 4.5h; AD+.

(Nice run offering 2km of ridge; avoid if isotherm below 3500m).

From the Mont-Blanc de Cheilon snow dome, follow the ridge to its lowest point (3695). Continue to follow the thread, taking care to avoid any ledges to the south. The ridge features a rocky shoulder (3770) at the foot of the summit. Climbing becomes difficult. The gros gendarme is climbed via a vertical chimney (IV) on the right-hand side of the ridge. Finally reaching the summit in just a few minutes.

A visit to our neighbors from the Cabane des Dix: